Flat Pedals or Clipless? Let's Make This Simple

Introduction

First, let’s sort out the naming disaster that has confused cyclists for 40 years. “Clipless” pedals are the ones you clip your shoe into. They’re called clipless because they replaced the old toe-clip-and-strap system. So: clipless = you clip in. Flat pedals = no clipping. Moving on.

This guide focuses on road and gravel bikes specifically. The pedal conversation looks different on a mountain bike — but that’s a different audience and a different guide.

What’s the Actual Difference?

Flat pedals: a flat platform you put your foot on in any shoe. Your foot can move freely, come off, and go back on whenever you like. No commitment, no technique required.

Clipless pedals: a spring-loaded cleat system that locks a compatible cycling shoe to the pedal. You twist your heel outward to release. Your foot is fixed in one position for the entire pedal stroke.

Flat pedals pros: use any shoe, foot comes off whenever you need it to, no learning curve for stopping, no additional shoe cost.

Flat pedals cons: less power transfer efficiency (your foot can move slightly), foot can bounce on rough road surfaces at speed.

Clipless pedals pros: consistent foot position every stroke — better for knee tracking and fit, more efficient power transfer over longer distances, foot stays on the pedal on rough or fast descents.

Clipless pedals cons: must remember to unclip before stopping, learning curve — everyone falls over at least once, requires dedicated cycling shoes + cleats.

The Pressure to Clip In — And Why It’s Not the Whole Story

Scroll through cycling content on social media and everyone seems to be clipped in, riding fast, looking confident. Your riding group probably uses clipless pedals. Friends who cycle might have told you it’s just what you do once you get serious.

That pressure is real — and it’s worth naming. Because it can make flat pedals feel like a beginner phase you’re supposed to grow out of as quickly as possible, rather than a legitimate choice that works for all kinds of riders.

Here’s the reality: flat pedals on a road or gravel bike are completely fine, and the idea that you must clip in to be taken seriously is gatekeeping, not good advice.

Why Flat Pedals Are a Valid Long-Term Choice

Flat pedals work well for: commuting and stop-start urban riding, riders who prioritise confidence and ease at junctions, mixed rides where you’re frequently on and off the bike, anyone whose bike fit isn’t fully sorted yet, and anyone who just prefers them.

When Clipless Pedals Make Sense

Good reasons to consider making the switch: you’re doing rides of 30km+ regularly and want more efficiency, you’re experiencing knee tracking issues, you’re confident stopping and starting and ready to add one more skill, and your bike fit is sorted (clipless pedals affect saddle height — see below).

The Clipless Systems — Which One for Road and Gravel?

SPD (Shimano Pedalling Dynamics) — two-bolt, recessed cleat. The cleat is small and recessed into the sole, so you can walk normally off the bike. The release tension is adjustable — set it as loose as possible when starting out. A genuinely good choice for gravel bikes where you might need to walk sections.

SPD-SL and Look Keo — three-bolt, large cleat. Larger cleat that protrudes from the sole — you clack around awkwardly when walking. Designed for pure road cycling where maximum power transfer matters and walking in your shoes is rare.

One Thing to Know Before You Switch

Switching to clipless pedals affects your saddle height. When you ride with flat pedals your foot can float slightly. When you clip in, your foot is locked in a fixed position, which effectively extends your leg slightly further at the bottom of the stroke. Your saddle usually needs to go up 3–5mm after switching.

If You Go Clipless — How Not to Fall Over

Set the release tension as loose as it goes (there’s usually a screw on the pedal body marked + and −)
Practise clipping in and out while stationary before any riding
Then practise in a completely traffic-free area before going anywhere near a junction
Mentally rehearse “twist heel out” until it’s a reflex, not a thought
At every stop for the first few weeks: think “unclip” before you think “brake”

The Verdict

Start on flat pedals. Get comfortable on the bike, build your confidence, get your fit sorted. When clipless starts to appeal — and it may, eventually — go for SPD if you’re on a gravel bike, or SPD or SPD-SL if you’re on a road bike depending on how much you value walkability.

There is no rule that says you need to clip in to enjoy cycling or to call yourself a cyclist. Your flat pedals are doing the job. The road doesn’t care what’s on your feet.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use flat pedals on a road or gravel bike?

Yes — completely. There's a widespread assumption that road and gravel bikes require clipless pedals, but that's not true. Flat pedals work on any bike with a standard pedal thread, which is every road and gravel bike on the market. A quality set of flat pedals is a straightforward swap and gives you a much better platform than the plastic pins that often come stock on new bikes.

What shoes should I wear with flat pedals?

Any shoe with a relatively stiff, flat sole works well. Dedicated flat pedal shoes have rubber compound soles specifically designed to grip the pedal pins, which makes a noticeable difference in how secure your foot feels. Avoid running shoes with very cushioned, rounded soles — they compress under load and reduce your feel for the pedal. A stiff-soled trainer or casual shoe with a flat sole works better than a running shoe for most people starting out.

Which clipless system is best for beginners on a gravel bike?

SPD — no question. Shimano's SPD system uses a small two-bolt cleat recessed into the sole, which means you can walk normally off the bike. The release tension is adjustable — set it as loose as possible when starting out. On a gravel bike specifically, the walkability matters more than on a road bike because you're more likely to need to get off and walk a section.

Will switching to clipless pedals affect my saddle height?

Yes — and this is the detail most people miss. When you ride with flat pedals your foot can float slightly. When you clip in, your foot is locked in a fixed position, which effectively extends your leg slightly further at the bottom of the stroke. Your saddle usually needs to go up 3–5mm after switching. If you switch and your knees start complaining, check your saddle height before assuming the pedals are the problem.

Is it safe to use clipless pedals in traffic?

Yes, with practice — but it requires a specific skill that takes deliberate effort to build before you take it into traffic. The risk isn't being clipped in while riding; it's forgetting to unclip before you stop. Practise clipping in and out in a completely traffic-free area until it's a reflex, not a thought. Most people need a few dedicated sessions before it becomes truly automatic. Don't take clipless pedals into traffic until stopping and unclipping feels as natural as braking.